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  • 國家品牌戰略計劃

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    理念源于朋克藝術

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    沈陽美發學校2017年燙發新技巧操作燙發兩部曲

    托尼蓋|www.mtao3.com|2018-06-13 15:54:31

    沈陽美發學校-沈陽美發學校網站——全中國萬千美發業內人士經常瀏覽的網站。

    【沈陽美發學校-沈陽美發學校,美發培訓學校官網知識導讀】沈陽美發學校小編核心提示:在燙發中,細節的處理很重要,設計中有一個元素,沒有做到位,就有可能導致燙發失敗,所以我們要想燙好發必須先分析好燙發的關鍵元素,也就是我們平常所說的原理。很多的發型師,不去下功夫討論原理,而去花大量的時間去空想所謂的發型,而且是很特別的那種,試想,哪一款發型不是由每一個元素組成的呢?下面我們將常見元素給大家分析一下。

        元素一:發質與燙發的關系

        抗拒性發質:這種發質具備了健康發質的特點,不易燙卷,一旦燙卷花型會比較持久,彈性也會很好。

        建議:這種發質,建議燙大花型相對比較理想,燙發軟化時可將頭發軟化劑90%—95%,不是很好軟化,應該注意。

         正常發質:這種發質屬于健康性發質,毛鱗片緊密,發質彈性好,光澤度高。- 

        建議:這樣的發質容易掌握,燙什么樣的花型都可以,在軟化時,可以將頭發軟化到80%。

        一般性受損發質:發梢干燥,分叉、光澤度不強顯得很粗糙。

        建議:根據發質直徑判斷燙什么樣的花型,一般情況粗硬的頭發直徑在90微米以上,適合大花,正常的直徑在60—90微米,什么類型都可以,細軟的直徑在60微米以下,適合小花處理,不過這種發質需軟化劑75%為佳。

        細軟發質:這種發質,直徑很小,手感柔軟,彈性相對較差,所以不太建議燙大花,在軟化時一般軟化到70—75%

        細硬發質:它與細軟發質相近,直徑都差不多,不同的是彈性優于細軟發質,可以燙中型花紋,可以軟化到80—85%,并且在軟化過程中,比較慢。

        嚴重受損發質:毛鱗片已經翻起或脫落了,頭發無彈性,無張力,易打結,表面粗糙,這種發質不易燙冷了,做熱燙時,軟化一般在60%—70%。

        元素二:裁剪層次的落差與燙發的關系

        很多發型師說:燙發好難,腦海里總是沒有。試問,你剪好頭了嗎?燙不好頭發的最根本的原因就是你不會剪型,如下分析最根本的剪裁:

        線條層次:不做縱向提升剪裁,不采用橫向45度裁剪出層次,再完成所需輪廓,最后將發中部做出強烈線條,發稍處完成柔和的光虛狀。

        將發尾部分完成輕柔的尖虛狀發中可以采用人字型滑剪完成線條這樣的層次可以設計螺化效果,自然柔美,也就是將發芯豎向或排放即可。

        反向層次:這樣的層次,這種層次極易產生花型效果,花型大小主要取決于卷子的直徑較適合需要花型的顧客,同時對頭發稀小者也有增加發量的感覺。

        這樣的層次建議設計成水平花紋效果,花型可大可小,主要以杠芯的直徑決定,一般情況水平進杠,根據需要也可以采用螺旋狀態進杠。

        堆積層次:這種層次落差一般在2cm以內,縱向90度以下,橫向90度以下剪切線在90度以內完成的層次,而這種層次非常易產生上面是微波,元素四:單片發片與卷法

        對于單束而言,在卷法上有不同的呈現,單束發片從不同的位置產生效果也不同。

        發尾燙:只燙發尾,留發中發根,完成后發尾有卷度。適合造型燙

        發中燙:只燙中,留發根發尾完成后,發中有卷度,就是平時所說的無重力懸空燙+ 

        發根燙:只燙發根,留發中發尾完成后,發根膨脹,適合頭型沒有主體感或特殊動感設計。

        挑燙:一束燙卷一束未燙或全頭燙從中抽出數束不燙,完成自然時尚。

        局部燙:采用普通發杠僅燙局部。表現發型魅力與個性。

      關鍵詞:沈陽美發學校-沈陽美容美發學校-沈陽美發學校-沈陽美容美發培訓學校-美發培訓學校-美發培訓-托尼蓋美發學校-托尼蓋美發培訓學校


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